Manali to Leh: August 2019

They say the Manali to Leh cycling trip is tough. They don't tell you it's 10x tougher than your wildest imagination. It demands everything – mental grit, physical endurance, and a healthy dose of stubbornness. I just finished it last month, and honestly, I'm still processing. Let me tell you about it, starting from the beginning, and then jumping to that incredible finish.

Day 1: Manali to Marhi – The Brutal Welcome

Started from Manali around 9 AM, from the Woodbine Hotel. The first stretch to Marhi was a relentless, soul-crushing uphill. Continuous. My first break came almost immediately, just to catch my breath and watch the Chandra River slosh by.

Rookie mistake: forgot my cooling glasses. The views, once I finally put them on, were better, but the climb? Insanely hard. So much climbing. There were moments I seriously questioned my life choices. Am I even fit for this?

Then the sun joined the party, baking us on the shinier side of the mountain. Another break, a lovely lemon tea, then back to it. The weather shifted, suddenly cold, then foggy just before Marhi. I can climb hills easily in Bangalore, but here? The thin air hit different. Heart pounding.

Traffic before Marhi was a nightmare. Finally rolled into camp at 5 PM. Hardest day, hands down. No cramps, surprisingly. It was a very long day of riding.

Lesson learned: pace yourself. Respect the mountains.

Day 2: Marhi to Sissu – Finding a Rhythm

I slept badly at Marhi, felt breathless. Had to open the tent flap to breathe. But the morning climb was actually nice. I decided to ditch the "fast" idea; no one's giving out awards. Just finish. The chill made the climb easier. A proper tea break, soaking in the incredible flora and views.

Rohtang Pass was… well, nothing much to see. But the downhill? Oh, the downhill! Smooth stretches, proper MTB descents, steep curves, and views that stole your breath. Some sections were just gone, washed away by snowmelt. After 30 minutes of braking, we were flying alongside the Chandra River.

Our Sissu campsite was amazing, right by the river, moonlight, not even that cold. The lack of oxygen on climbs is real though. Heart pounds. No signal in Sissu, just a beautiful little village and an amazing sunset.

Day 3: Sissu to Jispa – Confluence and Comfort

Good night's sleep, despite the drizzle. The river's sloshing was my lullaby. Still in Lahaul, lots of green, even cauliflower. After a couple of steep climbs, we hit a Raja's temple, prayed, tied ribbons. Then, beautiful villages, calm Tibetan people. Tandi was mostly downhill, different terrain – dry mountains, landslides. The Bhaga and Chandra rivers met just before Tandi bridge. Crossed it, then uphill to Keylong. Got signal! Called everyone. Keylong's nice, quiet. Lunch at a dhaba, met Munesh and Sunil. Felt good to be "loved."

Jispa was our night stop. An 18km ride, the first 6km uphill, tough but I found my rhythm. Downhill was pure fun. Jispa's a cute little place, sandwiched between huge mountains, a small farming valley. Took videos, visited the temple, met some Telugu bikers by the lake. So much fun. Life felt good. A proper bath after two days, a walk through Jispa. These are the moments you cherish.

Day 4: Jispa to Zing Zing Bar – Altitude's First Punch

Didn't write anything this day. My head felt light, dizzy. First real signs of altitude sickness after crossing Zing Zing Bar signpost. It was a struggle, I was told to take some rest.

Day 5: Zing Zing Bar to Sarchu – Baralacha La's Brutality

Morning was cold, but I'd slept well. Celebrated Independence Day. Today's climb: Baralacha La. 18km gradual uphill. Started slow, found a rhythm. One side chilly, other hot. Drank gallons of water. Stopped at Suraj Tal lake, beautiful. Summited after another 20 minutes. Top was freezing.

The downhill? Patchy. No road at all in places. Struggled to the lunch stop near Bharatpur. More downhill, but broken, rocky, river crossings. Just awful roads. Then, finally, Sarchu main road. Smooth. No traffic. Breezed the last 18km. Tents here were proper Swiss tents with washrooms. Luxury.

Day 6: Sarchu to Whiskey Nala – The Gauntlet of Gata Loops

Started with a glorious downhill. Crossed the HP border within an hour. Plain roads, no traffic. Another 25km downhill. Different terrain: dry mountains, sand dunes. Then, the Gata Loops. Hard. Very hard. My tempo died. Chilly cold. Dehydrated. 21 loops done.

Then the real climb started. Nakeela Pass, 8km away. Solid climb. Had to get off the bike. So hard to keep going after those loops. Truly terrible. A small downhill brought us to Whiskey Nala. Dull place. Nothing to see.

That night was awful. My body panicked. Stress peaked. Decided right then: no more pushing to extremes. I'll happily use the support vehicle if I need to. This isn't about proving anything to anyone but myself.

Day 7: Whiskey Nala – A Forced Rest

Couldn't cycle today. I was genuinely sick. My body just needed a break. Took some much-needed rest, letting my system recover from the brutal previous day and the altitude. Sometimes, the mountains force you to listen.

Day 8: Debring – Snowed In

The plan was to cycle to Debring, but the mountains had other ideas. It snowed heavily, making cycling impossible. We had to skip the ride entirely. Another day dictated by nature's unpredictable hand.

Day 9: Lato to Leh – The Finish Line

We had spent the night at a small guesthouse in Lato, around 13,500 ft. On our ninth day, we started early, hoping for Leh by noon. Continuous downhill to Upshi. Within minutes, my breathing felt better – we'd dropped to 11,000 ft. Now, we were in the heart of the beautiful Ladakh valley. A few kilometers in, the mighty Indus River appeared, overflowing from upstream rains. It felt incredible to finally see the river our country is named after.

As soon as we hit the main city, signal! The rest of the route was relatively flat. Lots of military camps, so not allowed to take photos. Cycling through those majestic landscapes, it hit me. I'd done it. A sense of accomplishment washed over me, overwhelming everything else. Even now, I feel immensely proud. This feeling? I'll carry it forever.

During the toughest moments, I swore I'd never come back to the Himalayas. But now? I know that's not true. If I get another chance, I'd jump on that flight in a heartbeat. The mountains break you down, but they build you back up, stronger. And the views? Unforgettable.